Monday 25 October 2010

Return to Buenos Aires and the return of the holiday curse

After a really pleasant couple of days in Foz i got a transfer over the border into Argentina to the town of Puerto Igazu. Its a small town and one that serves only as a base for Igazu falls, unlike Foz which is a large city (and a lot less safe and pleasant).
The site to visit the falls is alot better developed on the Argentinian side. There are several circuits that can be walked in the Jungle surrounding the falls so i spent a very pleasant few hours following the routes as they went in and out of the Jungle and regularly passed over and beside stunning waterfalls. The highlight was a very long bridge that crossed a river for half a mile before ending at devils throat, the area where the biggest volume of  water converges and crashes into the river below. It is truely spectacular, very difficult to get your head around the volumes of water that are passing through. There were huge clouds of mist arcing into the sky and giant rainbows when the sun caught it. Very beautiful.
There was also a huge amount of wildlife in the surrounding area, large lizards crossing the paths and invading the cafe stops, clouds of brightly coloured butterflies and also a lot of brightly coloured birds everywhere. It really is a wonderful place.

I then had to get the bus to Buenos aires, after my experience in the Chaco i was not thrilled at the prospect as it was at least 18 hours away. I treated myself to the more luxurious Cama option, where you get better seats that recline almost horizontaly, better meals and alcoholic drinks provided. It was great! Really comfortable, great cooked food, wine, champagne and whiskey handed out during the evening. I sat watching Mad Max on the TV, it would have been difficult to improve on!! Crossing the chaco and watching Transporters 1, 2 and 3 back to back at ear splitting volume while getting baked alive quickly became a distant memory.

Buenos Aires is a fantastic city, something i couldn´t appreciate as much last time as  i was jet lagged and only had a full day here before flying to Salta. I met an Australian couple Rene and Gerard on the first day went out and got fantastic steak with them, then took a city tour by bicycle. The tour was great, although we cycled through La Boca which is a tourist no go area because its very poor and violent. We cycled up to Bocas stadium and past the training ground where kids were spying on the team through gaps in the fences. Everybody were playing football in the parks. I loved the fact that the Coca Cola signs outside the stadium are black and white because their much hated rivals River Plate play in red and black and they wouldn´t allow them to advertise in those colours. 
The day after i went to San Telmo market which has a huge range of stalls selling everything from 100year old maps of Argentina, to antiques, to very old toys, to stunning oil paintings of couples dancing Tango, to vintage musical instruments, old old signs advertising tango bars. A guy was playing Tango on guitar, groups were standing in circles playing drums. Wonderful.

Boca fans top tier. Louder



I predict a riot....Boca vs Independiente
That afternoon i had booked to go and see Boca Juniors playing Independiente. I didn´t check the details too well as it turned out they played at Independiente! None of us realised as the stadium was very close to the city centre, it was only when somebody asked why the seats were red and black not the blue and gold of Boca that we realised we were watching the legendary side but away!! grrrr. It was an entertaining match, obviously a much higher skill level than games i´ve seen in the UK. The Boca fans created a great atmosphere on the far side of the stadium, the whole time chanting and playing drums. It turns out Boca aren´t the powerhouse they once were, sitting mid table alongside Independiente It was 0-0,  Independiente were slightly the better side.

Emma arrived today!! Very early might i add! I got to the airport for 7.15am, and she appeared looking very sleepy but very lovely 45 minutes later just as i was wondering if she had missed the flight.....shes having a quick powernap at the moment. I could do with one aswell, had a fairly late night (for an old person - midnight!) with Gareth and Lizzie who i met originaly on Lake Titicaca a few weeks ago. Another amazing steak of course, and it would have been rude not to drink a reasonable quantity of red wine........

Marvellous. My memory card has corruped and lost all my Igazu and Football pics, that is indescribably annoying. God damn my piece of shit camera. Will try and get some copies of the footy and stick them up later.

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